Thru Horizons

Thinking about tackling the trail yourself? Check out my Freycinet Peninsula Circuit: How-To post.

1. Day 1 – 23 January 2023: Freycinet Visitor Centre to Cooks Corner Campsite
2. Day 2 – 24 January 2023: Cooks Corner Campsite to Wineglass Bay Campsite
3. Day 3 – 25 January 2023: Wineglass Bay Campsite to Freycinet Visitor Centre
4. Want More?

Day 1 – 23 January 2023: Freycinet Visitor Centre to Cooks Corner Campsite

Scrub & sand

Penny and I are all efficiency when we arrive at the Freycinet Visitor Centre: we ask a couple of quick questions at the information desk and undertake the usual last-minute pack reshuffle in the carpark before we sign the intentions log at the trailhead. Then we’re off.

The track begins gently, weaving through the bush on a smooth, well-maintained path. We chatter our way along, and in next to no time we’re at Hazards Beach. It’s gorgeous: a long sweep of white sand, pale water lapping softly, and the shadowy outline of peaks across the way. We walk across the firmer sand near the water, partly for grip, but also because the Parks notes warn that shorebirds nest higher up. Penny tries for an artistically angled photo, but loses her balance and ends up turtled under her pack. Like any good friend I laugh and take photos before helping her up.

The three kilometres of beach pass quickly, and so does the next section of bush. Soon we’re on Cooks Beach and heading towards the campsite at its far end. We haven’t seen many hikers today, but a healthy collection of tents already occupies the prime beachfront camping spots, so we head slightly back into the trees.

After pitching our tents we wander down to the water, dipping toes in (me) and going for a brisk swim (Penny). We chat with a couple of other hikers. We dry off, play some cards, eat dinner and return to the beach just as the sky blushes dusty pink and periwinkle.

Day 2 – 24 January 2023: Cooks Corner Campsite to Wineglass Bay Campsite

Blowdowns & big views

Today’s our biggest day on trail, and I’m hoping we can make it even bigger by making it to the end of trail rather than camping at Wineglass Bay, where there’s no drinking water. We top up our water reservoirs from the tank at Cooks Beach, shoulder our packs, and start our walk; until Penny suddenly remembers she’s left her earbuds dangling from a branch back at camp. She hustles back while I wait on the beach. When she returns, successful in her mission, we begin today’s section in earnest.

The forest offers welcome shade as the temperature starts to climb. We clamber over a couple of fallen trees; at first, it feels mildly adventurous, but the novelty quickly evaporates. The blowdowns aren’t occasional, they’re constant. It feels like every few metres we’re forced to take a giant step over or limbo under a new one. It’s slow, energy-sapping work.

Not long after we stop for an early lunch on a warm slab of flat rock the trees open up as we reach the junction for the optional summit of Mt Freycinet. We’re thrilled to ditch our packs, imagining a light and quick ascent. Joke’s on us: the climb is steep, rocky and part scramble. We hand our water bottles to each other between moves. But the view from the summit, with Wineglass Bay backing on to a narrow neck shared by Hazard’s Beach, is worth every step.

With Mt Graham looming ahead, we retrieve our packs and begin the ascent. It’s very warm now, and we climb slowly. By the time we reach the top, we’re ready for the day to be over. But the descent drags. Wineglass Bay sits in front of us, dipping in and out of view, but the trail continues to serve up its blowdown obstacle course.

When we finally reach the campground, we’re done for the day; there’s no way we’re walking any further. The campsite is packed, but we find a spot, drop our gear, and beeline for the beach for a revitalising swim in the chilly ocean. Later, we eat dinner on the sand as the sunset turns the mountains gold, a fitting reward for today’s effort.

Day 3 – 25 January 2023: Wineglass Bay Campsite to Freycinet Visitor Centre

Early-morning escape

We’re up before most of the campground stirs, keen to tackle the infamous stairs out of Wineglass Bay while the morning’s still cool. We’re also almost out of water, which is ideal for pack weight but less ideal for exercising. The beach is beautifully quiet, just us and a couple of other early-rising hikers padding across the sand.

At the end of the beach, the climbing begins. We plod upwards, slowly and steadily, using every ounce of aerobic capacity we possess. I ration the tiny amount of water I have left; no sips unless I’m absolutely desperate. By the time we reach the lookout we’re breathless. A sign t the top warns day hikers not to attempt the 1,000 stairs downwards unless they’re prepared to walk back up them. Can confirm it’s tough.

We drop our packs at a bench and take our time completing a loop of the viewpoint and catching our breath. The morning light is soft and gentle, and with only a few other people around the place is peaceful. When we’re ready, we continue upwards. Stairs are still involved, but the path is gentler now. We eventually emerge at the trailhead, where we sign out of the logbook, fling our packs into the boot, and drive straight to the first open cafe we see on the road out of Coles Bay; tired, triumphant and absolutely ready for a big breakfast.

Want More?

Curious about the practical side of the trail? Check out my Freycinet Peninsula Circuit: How-To post for route info and planning tips.