10 days, 194 kilometres, 4,810 metres of elevation gain. I thru-hiked the trail in October-November 2023*: here’s the journey, day-by-day.
Thinking about tackling the trail yourself? Check out my West Highland Way: How-To post.
* Ok, ok thru-hiking police. Yes, technically I skipped a day and had to go back and fill it in later. Sue me.
- The Stats
- Trail Journal
- Day 1 – 27 October 2023: Glasgow to Milngavie
- Day 2 – 28 October 2023: Milngavie to Drymen
- Day 3 – 29 October 2023: Drymen to Rowardennan
- Day 4 – 30 October 2023: Rowardenan to Inverarnan
- Day 5 – 31 October 2023: Inverarnan to Tyndrum
- Day 6 – 1 November 2023: Tyndrum to Kingshouse
- Day 7 – 2 November 2023: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
- Day 8 – 3 November 2023: Kinlochleven to Fort William
- Day 9 – 4 November 2023: Ben Nevis Side Mission
- Day 10 – 26 September 2024: Tyndrum to Kingshouse Re-Do
- Want More?
The Stats
Trip Summary
- Start date: 27 October 2023
- Days hiked: 9
- Zero days: 1
- Total days (hiked + zero): 10
- End date: 4 November 2023 (plus return day on 26 September 2024)
Distance & Elevation
- Total distance: 193.69 km
- Average distance/day (hiking days only): 21.52 km
- Total elevation gain: 4,810 m
- Average elevation gain / day (hiking days only): 534 m
Time & Pace
- Total moving time: 49h 15m
- Average moving time / day (hiking days only): 5h 28m
- Average moving pace: 15:16/km
- Average speed: 3.93km/h
Trail Journal
Day 1 – 27 October 2023: Glasgow to Milngavie
Distance: 20.49 km | Elevation gain: 115 m | Moving time: 4h 27m | Average pace: 13:02/km | Average speed: 4.6km/hr
City to country
We step off the train in Glasgow into a crisp, sunny autumn afternoon. It’s an auspicious beginning to the West Highland Way, even if we’re technically beginning a few kilometres early. Because rather than hopping on another train to Milngavie, the official trailhead, Nechama and I follow the Kelvingrove Walkway.
It takes a little while to escape the urban bustle. For a stretch we’re walking beside a very busy road, traffic roaring in our ears, until the path veers away and we can hear ourselves think again. Soon we’re passing the university, perfectly framed by gold- and orange-flecked leaves, then following a quiet river that gently escorts us out of Glasgow and into the countryside.
Rolling green fields unfold before us, and a small herd of cows watch us with polite inquiry as we pass. The scenery isn’t dramatic, but the path is clear; even if, at times, it feels like we’re following a sheep track. It’s the perfect warm-up for the rest of the trail, and as students who’ve just saved ourselves an extra train fare, we’re pretty happy with our decision.
By early evening we reach our hotel, drop our packs, and do the standard first-night/pre-departure supermarket dash. Then we settle in to wait for our friend Sara, who’ll be joining us for part of the trail, and letting the pre-adventure excitement build.
Day 2 – 28 October 2023: Milngavie to Drymen
Distance: 21.49 km | Elevation gain: 256 m | Moving time: 5h 14m | Average pace: 14:38/km | Average speed: 4.11km/hr
Ambition vs ankle
We take our time gathering ourselves in the morning before ambling toward the official trailhead in the Milngavie high street. I’m desperate for caffeine, and so duck into the first open cafe. Then we begin the awkward dance of trying to make eye contact with a local for the obligatory starting photo. They’re clearly used to hikers and have perfected the art of not engaging, but we eventually succeed and stride under the arch, officially on our way.
It’s a gorgeous blue-sky day; crisp, bright and perfect for admiring the auburn leaves that line our path. A few locals take the time to wish us well; you don’t get this kind of friendliness in London. The trail is wide and well-maintained, and we fall into easy conversation as we wander through forest and open countryside.
Then the path narrows and starts to send us over gently rolling hills. I turn to ask Sara a question, step awkwardly on a rock, and twist my ankle. Unbelievable! I had no injuries across a whole summer of Caminos, and yet on official day 1 of the WHW I mess up my ankle. There’s only one way forward, and it’s through, so I grit my teeth and keep going with a lovely hobbling gait. Fortunately, a small cafe appears directly on trail, just in time for a late lunch. I elevate my ankle while we inhale sandwiches.
We push on towards Drymen. Pretty villages appear one after another, each with at least one house we fantasise about living in. In-between, we say hello to cows and sheep who couldn’t care less about our presence. By the time we arrive in Drymen, the sky is turning deep blue as the sun sets. We duck into the perfectly placed Drymen Beer Shop to pick up a local brew, before turning for our hotel. We learn the event we’ve been warned to bring earplugs for is a wedding; feeling out of place in our hiking gear we drop our bags and retreat to a pub for dinner.
Day 3 – 29 October 2023: Drymen to Rowardennan
Distance: 17.86 km | Elevation gain: 337 m | Moving time: 4h 24m | Average pace: 14:46/km | Average speed: 4.06km/hr
Misty misadventures
We’re all rather bleary-eyed as we prepare to set off this morning, having forgotten that daylight savings ended overnight. A quick stop at the local bakery for coffee and pastries is essential fuel for the day ahead; but as we finally set off it begins to drizzle. It comes and goes in patches, never too heavy, but enough for us to all learn the lesson that water-resistant and waterproof are not the same. At least the weather made the landscape look moody and mystical.
Conic Hill, our intended highlight for the day, was closed for bridge repairs, so we took the low route to Balmaha. We quickly became enmeshed with a large day-walking crowd, and had to carefully weave through them until we finally reached the road. It wasn’t thrilling walking, but at least it delivered us promptly to the pub, where warmth, food and a bit of respite were pure bliss.
Inside, it was so cosy that we lingered longer than planned. When we got going again the drizzle had relented enough for us to catch a fleeting glimpse of Loch Lomond, before sending us into a forested section. The shortening daylight, combined with the overcast sky, meant darkness arrived earlier than anticipated, catching s by surprise.
The next time the trail took us down to a road we were relieved to find a campsite nearby. Reception handed us a local taxi number; it proved useless, nothing available. So we called the bunkhouse we’d booked, and they were kind enough to offer to collect us. Upon arrival, we discovered our first “dry room”; heated, and intended solely for drying wet clothes and wetter shoes. What luxury! After showers and dinner we exchanged small talk with another group of three hikers before turning in, tired but satisfied with our efforts in the elements.
Day 4 – 30 October 2023: Rowardenan to Inverarnan
Distance: 23.97 km | Elevation gain: 465 m | Moving time: 7h 8m | Average pace: 17:50/km | Average speed: 3.36km/hr
Slow but stunning
After being caught out yesterday we were determined to start early today, especially because there were no exit points along the Loch if we got stuck. Despite our best intentions we didn’t set off until just before 9am. But the morning sky was a perfect blue and spirits were high, especially after we passed a charming honesty box, each of us grabbing a snack to see us through the day.
Today’s entire route hugged the shore of Loch Lomond. The going was slow thanks to rocks, roots and occasional muddy patches. But we didn’t really mind, since the autumn colours were at their peak, and through the trees we could glimpse the mountains growing taller and more dramatic. Frequent photo stops were required. During our lunch break, a curious robin flitted up close to us, no doubt hoping for some pity crumbs to be thrown his way.
As we emerged from the trees, the mountains began to glow as the sun dipped lower and lower in the sky. The final stretch still demanded effort: muddy paths, stiles to clamber over, and large rocks to navigate. Just as we reached the outskirts of Inverarnan the sun began to set in earnest, bathing everything in a deep, dusky hue.
Crossing a wide river, we soon arrived at our home for the night: The Drover’s Inn. We’d done no research, and so were blown away: it was an ancient building, brimming with character, with a motley collection of taxidermy all dressed up in their Halloween finest. A roaring fire welcomed us and we claimed a table, settling in for a beer and a well-earned pub dinner.
Day 5 – 31 October 2023: Inverarnan to Tyndrum
Distance: 22.08 km | Elevation gain: 626 m | Moving time: 5h 48m | Average pace: 15:47/km | Average speed: 3.81km/hr
Forest & fiery sky
A lot happens over breakfast. We sadly say goodbye to Sara, who has to head back to London. Trail gossip also reveals another walker getting the bus: he’s cut his hand quite seriously while camping. They depart, and shortly after Nechama and I do, too; waving goodbye to the same group of walkers who’d stayed in the Rowardennan bunkhouse with us.
We’re greeted by another bright, crisp morning. A gentle climb slowly reveals the surrounding mountain tops, bathed in early sunlight. The path soon widens into a 4WD track through farmland, and we trot steadily past indifferent sheep who are clearly used to passing walkers. Clouds crawl in, dimming some of the morning light, but the sun stubbornly fights back.
At a junction, we decide to descend to Crianlarich for a coffee. It’s a steeper trail than anticipated, but the only open building, the general store, makes the effort worthwhile. As we took a break, Nechama decided she’d take the train to Tyndrum while I continued there on foot. We said our temporary goodbyes, and I set off once more.
The trail led through a mossy pine forest, later opening onto a cleared hillside. Stumps and broken branches littered the landscape; a jarring sight that motivated me to move quickly to rejoin more wild terrain. A short road crossing led to a dedicated footpath, lined with blazing orange leaves contrasting spectacularly against a bright blue sky.
The trail turned back into farmland as the sun dipped toward the mountains. I meandered around a small lake where Robert the Bruce once threw his sword, before finally arriving in Tyndrum and reuniting with Nechama. After a quick rest we head to the only pub, and are unsurprised when we see the other group of walkers are already set up there. We share a table for dinner, stories of the trail flowing as we plan for tomorrow’s less-than-promising weather forecast.
Day 6 – 1 November 2023: Tyndrum to Kingshouse
Rained out
I wake early, packing quietly so as not to disturb Nechama. She’d decided yesterday to sit today out, put off by the gloomy forecast. I was keen to give it a go. I set off into a dim and grey morning, though at least it wasn’t raining, and I was quietly delighted to see the mountains ahead sporting a light cap of snow.
After a quick emotional-support snack stop at a local convenience store, the drizzle began. It soon turned into proper rain. I push on for a few kilometres, but by the time I’d covered three my fingers were numb, and without reliable phone service I didn’t want to become that hiker. Today’s 30km stretch felt like it could quickly turn into a recipe for disaster, so I made the call to turn back.
Back at the hotel, we dithered until the latest possible checkout time, then wandered to The Real Food Cafe during a break in the rain. When the bus arrived, it felt almost surreal to cover in 20 minutes what would have taken all day on foot. We enjoyed a short, mercifully rain-free walk to the Kingshouse Hotel. The bunkhouse wasn’t quite ready, but we settled in to a window seat in the hotel with a cup of tea. A chat with the bartender, another Aussie, netted us a Fort William whisky bar recommendation which was promptly added to my Google Maps starred list.
The afternoon passed slowly. We took the opportunity to squeeze in some university work, before checking into the bunkhouse where we met Matilde, a French hiker we’d heard about from the bunkhouse in Rowardennan. She’d done that tough Loch Lomond section in jeans, in the rain! Dinner at the Kingshouse restaurant rounded out the day. As we ate, deer crept close to the windows, as if we were the exhibits in their zoo.
Day 7 – 2 November 2023: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Distance: 14.25 km | Elevation gain: 416 m | Moving time: 3h 56m | Average pace: 16:34/km | Average speed: 3.63km/hr
Devil’s schmaircase
We woke to a grey morning, but mercifully it wasn’t raining. Patches of blue sky teased on the horizon, and today’s walk was a short one, so we decided to risk it in our water-resistant gear.
Just as we set off, the clouds began to disperse in earnest. The moon lingered ahead, and the landscape glowed in shades I’d never seen before: burnished bronze grass, the dull purple remnants of heather, and mountains shifting from shades of eggplant to midnight before vanishing into deep grey clouds that gradually yielded to a mesmerising azure sky. I was entranced.
As we reached the end of the valley a tiny whitewashed building at the foot of Buachaille Etive Mór caught my eye. It gave a perfect sense of the mountain’s scale and grandeur, even if its summit remained tantalisingly out of sight behind a bank of cloud. After gazing at it for several minutes we turned towards the Devil’s Staircase.
The climb up the Staircase had a fearsome reputation online, but we had no trouble with it. Halfway up we paused to chat with a hiker and her border collie who were passing the other way. She offered tips for other hikes in the area, and mentioned that tomorrow we’d pass the ruins of an old building, explaining that it had been a usable house until fairly recently; she used to visit a friend who lived there.
We said our goodbyes, and as we reached the top of the Staircase a landscape of mountaintops opened up before us. The colours, again, were almost otherworldly, and I couldn’t wipe the grin off my face as the path unwound gently before us. Too soon, the trail send us into a forest and down a steep descent to Kinlochleven. Our hostel was one of the first buildings in town, and we whiled away a lazy afternoon, keeping an eye on the sky as we thought we’d try and catch the sunset over Loch Leven.
We nearly missed it, a wrong turn delaying us, but the sky slowly lit up in fiery tangerine as the surrounding peaks glowed in burning pink. It felt like stepping into an oil painting, Darkness fell quickly afterwards, and we scoped out the town’s pubs, settling for a beer at the only open one with – you guessed it – that same group of walkers, before retreating for a homemade dinner at our hostel.
Day 8 – 3 November 2023: Kinlochleven to Fort William
Distance: 25.53 km | Elevation gain: 640 m | Moving time: 6h 20m | Average pace: 14:54/km | Average speed: 4.03km/hr
Ghosts of the past
I began the final day on trail solo, Nechama having opted to bus through to Fort William. As I tackled the steep climb out of Kinlochleven, I questioned whether she hadn’t made the wiser choice.
At the top of the climb I emerged into a valley carved by glaciers millennia ago, grey skies looming but not threatening rain. The morning’s walks was gentle, following a 4WD track, and I breathed a sigh of relief when a zig-zagging path up a hill directly ahead turned out not to be my path.
Midway, I arrived at the abandoned building the hiker from yesterday had mentioned. Roofless and empty, it seemed like a relic from the 1800s rather than something that had recently been lived in.
The novelty of the valley gradually wore off, and I was nearly desperate to see a new landscape when the path veered gently to the right. These new views wore off quickly, too; but the end of the valley revealed some informational signs that told me I was looking at an isle in Lochan Lùnn Dà-Brà where Macbeth used to reside, and that the valley I’d just traversed was used by Clans fleeing the Highland Clearances.
A brief section through young forest and a final short climb brought me over the final saddle, where I had views overlooking Glen Nevis. Ben Nevis loomed somewhere ahead, totally obscured by clouds. The path joined a wide gravel road, a somewhat anticlimactic finale to such a wild trail, but at least it meant I soon arrived at our hostel in Glen Nevis. I paused my Strava while I took a quick refresh, and then Nechama and I set off on the final few kilometres of the trail into town.
We took the obligatory terminus photos, then spotted the usual crew of hikers inside the Wetherspoons. It felt fitting to join them for a celebratory drink to mark the end of the adventure.
Day 9 – 4 November 2023: Ben Nevis Side Mission
Distance: 16.07 km | Elevation gain: 1,318 m | Moving time: 5h 48m | Average pace: 21:42/km | Average speed: 2.77km/hr
Whiteout wonder
We woke to a grey morning, clouds hanging low in the valley outside. Nechama was heading back to London today, while I stayed on to attempt a summit of Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in Scotland and the UK. I read somewhere that the Scottish Highlands once used to be as tall as the Himalayas are now. Today, Ben is just 1,345m above sea level.
I walked Nechama down to the bus stop before retracing my steps along the valley to the trailhead. I’d considered trying a more technical route, but the combo of gloomy weather and a solo hike swayed me towards the main path, which was literally paved most of the way. The ascent was a lung-buster and I paused often, ostensibly for photos. A young kid, no more than 8 or 9, darted ahead with his dad, offering unexpected motivation: if he could do it, so could I. A few trail runners flew past, putting the rest of us to shame.
The path actually begins on a neighbouring mountain before crossing a saddle onto Ben Nevis itself. The saddle was a welcome flat stretch, letting me recover before the final push. Emerging above the low clouds, I watched them drift tranquilly around the surrounding peaks. Snow patches began to appear, small but growing larger and eventually covering the path. I’d never hiked in snow before, but the coverage was light and the cairns were visible to guide my way, so I felt confident pressing on.
Finally, I reached the summit and its collection of tiny stone buildings and remains shrouded in whiteout. Who should I spot but the usual group of hikers, ready to head down but kindly pausing to take my summit photo before setting off. Views were impossible at the top, as was opening my Thermos with my cold hands, so I began my descent, pausing where visibility returned and offered glimpses of the valley and the Loch below.
The remainder of the descent was very food-motivated. I crashed back to the hostel, took a quick shower and headed for a final celebratory pub meal in town. Ben Nevis had delivered the perfect conclusion to a trail and an experience that was more incredible than I had anticipated.
Day 10 – 26 September 2024: Tyndrum to Kingshouse Re-Do
Distance: 31.95 km | Elevation gain: 637 m | Moving time: 6h 10m | Average pace: 11:36/km | Average speed: 5.18km/hr
Type-A triumph
It’s been almost a year since I was last on the West Highland Way, and the section between Tydrum and Kingshouse that I’d had to skip due to the weather has been haunting me ever since. Today is actually my second attempt at a re-do; the first, back in May 2024, was attempted with a stomach bug that quickly encouraged me to turn back. This time, I’m back in Scotland after a road trip with my parents, who were visiting from Australia, and it seems only logical to squeeze in this last stretch before I start a new job next week. I’m camping, but slackpacking; leaving my tent at Tyndrum and planning to catch the bus back from Kingshouse.
The first few kilometres pass quickly; I’m honestly sick of seeing them, having walked them twice before. It’s a grey, gloomy day, classic weather for Scotland, though my parents wouldn’t know it; they had perfect blue skies their entire visit. The trail winds through end-of-season heather, muted autumn tones beginning to take over from the bright summery colours. Plenty of other walkers are out today, most of them clearly thru-hikers, making a start contrast to the quiet trail I remembered.
After a quick cuppa at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel I push on. The wide gravel track allows a solid pace, and when I spot blue on the horizon I’m motivated to chase it. Lunch is devoured in a sheltered dip between hills, the views spectacular. As I crest the next rise the views become even more spectacular, lakes dotting the surprisingly flat landscape, evading all attempts to capture them with a photograph.
Then Buachaille Etive Mór emerges, a sheer black monolith jutting from the ground, basking in a perfect beam of sunlight that highlights its jagged sides. It’s the most spectacular stage end I could imagine, and I’m grateful my type-A obsession with completing this stage has brought me back here. From the road, the path to Kingshouse is familiar, and after a quick meal I catch the bus back to Tyndrum, West Highland Way finally complete.
Want More?
Curious about the practical side of the trail? Check out my West Highland Way: How-To post for route info and planning tips.
Thru Horizons 
Leave a comment