4 days, 104 kilometres, 3,160 metres of elevation gain. I thru-hiked the trail in December 2025: here’s the journey, day-by-day.
Thinking about tackling the trail yourself? Check out my Great Ocean Walk: How-To post.
The Stats
Trip Summary
- Start date: 17 December 2025
- Days hiked: 4
- End date: 20 December 2025
Distance & Elevation
- Total distance: 104.33 km
- Average distance / day: 26.08 km
- Total elevation gain & loss: + 3,162 m / – 3,126 m
- Average elevation gain & loss / day: + 791 m / – 782 m
Time & Pace
- Total moving time: 25h 9m
- Average moving time / day: 6h 17m
- Average moving pace: 14:28/km
- Average speed: 4.15km/hr
Budget (ex gear)
| Category | Total (AUD) | Breakdown |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | 121.20 | Apollo Bay hostel (40); Blanket Bay campground (19.10); Johanna Beach campground (19.10); Princetown Recreation Reserve (43) |
| Food | 78.35 | Pre-departure supermarket haul (74.35); Cape Otway Coke (4) |
| Other | 13.50 | Garmin inReach subscription |
| TOTAL | 213.05 | Average / day: 53.26 |
Trail Journal
Day 1 – 17 December 2025: Apollo Bay to Blanket Bay
Distance: 22.56 km | Elevation gain: 568 m | Moving time: 5h 0m | Average pace: 13:18/km | Average speed: 4.51km/hr
I hope all my bad karma for this trip is out of the way, because a lot has gone wrong before I even step foot on the trail. I left home early yesterday morning, and had to double back twice for forgotten items. Then, two hours into the drive, I realised I’d forgotten my hiking pants; obviously I can’t do without this essential, so a detour into Geelong at closing time followed. Morning brings a final mishap; I left my breakfast, and my cold soak jar, in the fridge of the Apollo Bay hostel. Luckily, I’m parking my car at Twelve Apostles and getting the bus back to Apollo Bay, so I can collect it, although this means some bonus kilometres to begin the trail.
When I finally shoulder my pack, my jaw drops. This is a shakedown hike after acquiring a lot of new gear, and the gram counting has paid off; it’s so light! It’s a fantastic way to start the trail, and I set off under the midday sun and wide blue skies. I take my first beach alternate almost immediately, grateful to escape the road walking between Apollo Bay and Marengo.
After the first few kilometres the trail quietens down, and I have it to myself. Turquoise water glimmers and glints to my left as the trail undulates ahead. The first stairs arrive, and they’re a rude awakening. They’re not physically hard, but they’re tougher than anticipated, which makes me wonder what the coming days have in store. I stop for lunch beside a creek that spills into the sea, and discover I’ve lost my spork. For the second time this year. Breakfast is officially off the menu, but at least lunch can be eaten with hands.
Forest follows in the afternoon, cool and eucalyptus-scented, the perfect escape from the heat of the afternoon. I arrive last in Blanket Bay, forced to pitch near a group of teens who look like they’ve maybe just finished year 12. Luckily, they turn out to be polite and respectful, abiding by hiker midnight rules. I take a brief dip at the beach and, as the light begins to fade, retreat to my tent for dinner, tired but content.
Day 2 – 18 December 2025: Blanket Bay to Johanna Beach
Distance: 36.98 km | Elevation gain: 994 m | Moving time: 9h 9m | Average pace: 14:51/km | Average speed: 4.04km/hr
With little incentive to linger given breakfast requires utensils I don’t have, I wake early and pack quickly. The trail begins gently, skirting the beach where a heron pokes in the scrub, before it pulls me back onto cool, green forest. It smells unmistakably Australian, all eucalypt and sun-warmed earth, and I realise how much I’ve missed it while being overseas.
Parkers Inlet is an easy crossing. The stairs on the far side are not. After the shade of the forest, being forced to climb so steeply upwards in the direct sunlight is a challenge that has me stopping frequently for water breaks. The next stretch is similarly light on shade as I traverse through coastal scrub as the heat of the day continues to build. By the time Cape Otway Lighthouse appears on the horizon, I’m fantasising about a cold drink. Miraculously, the cafe is open so my dream is manifested; even better, they give me a handful of spoons. Breakfast is back on.
Moving on quickly, Station Beach soon comes into view. The flies have been descending upon me in force, and I opt for taking the beach alternate so I can shake them for a while. The wind works its magic, and I make the out-and-back detour to Rainbow Falls pack-free. Luxury. But re-shouldering my pack for the remaining beach walk is tougher than anticipated. The walking is slow, the sun relentless, and the beach stretches endlessly ahead. I’m relieved when I arrive at the steep uphill section that will deliver me back to the trail proper.
Aire River appears soon afterwards. But its water tank sits atop a punishing staircase far away from the river itself. There’s no way I’m going back down those so I can have a dip; instead, I cool off in the shade of the shelter and chat with another hiker doing the same.
After a good rest I push on, but I’m becoming sluggish in the heat. The trail gifts me with a small patch of forest, where I rest to cool down; and then a further gift when a koala appears, freezing upon the sight of me to watch with suspicion. It feels like a sign that I’ve got this.
More forest and scrub follows, and Johanna Beach finally appears. Walking along it is beautiful and brutal, in equal measure. The sand is unforgiving, the inlet requires a switch to sandals, and the final climb and extra kilometres up to the walk-in campground are merciless. I roll into camp at sunset, accidentally pitch on a nest of bull ants, re-pitch far away from them, and then finally sit down for dinner. The reward, though, is worth it: the sky ignites in flaming pink and orange as the sun sinks on a spectacular day of trail.
Day 3 – 19 December 2025: Johanna Beach to Princetown Recreation Reserve
Distance: 36.56 km | Elevation gain: 1,359 m | Moving time: 9h 14m | Average pace: 15:09/km | Average speed: 3.96km/hr
Cloud cover greets me this morning, and I’m grateful for it: after yesterday’s heat, the cooler air feels like an ally. A brief section of farmland brings flies and a mob of kangaroos that are unimpressed with me, but soon I’m back in tall eucalypt forest striding along a wide access track where the progress finally feels easy.
The ease doesn’t last, though. Milanesia Beach appears, followed by a savage climb up and away. The rest of the day settles into a punishing rhythm of relentless ups and downs, as if the trail has decided hikers must summit every minor rise. Shade disappears, horse flies arrive, and frequent breaks become essential.
Just before Devil’s Kitchen i spot my first snake of the hike. It’s a sharp reminder to stay alert. At the campground I take a long break in the shade, eating lunch and doing mental maths: can I make it to the end of the trail today? I can definitely make it to Princetown, so I push on.
The trail, up until now well maintained and clearly recently whipper-snippered, becomes overgrown. The path is obvious, still, but I don’t love that it’s harder to see where I’m putting my feet now, especially after that snake sighting earlier. Eventually, though, the scrub relents as Princetown draws near. By the time the campground comes into view, the thought of a single additional metre of elevation gain does me in; I’m done for the day.
Camp is simple, the shower glorious. A neighbouring family adopts me, offering tea and chocolate and checking I have enough food and water to see me through. A few drops of rain splatter down, and I fall asleep grateful for shelter and the kindness of strangers.
Day 4 – 20 December 2025: Princetown Recreation Reserve to Twelve Apostles
Distance: 8.23 km | Elevation gain: 241 m | Moving time: 1h 46m | Average pace: 12:53/km | Average speed: 4.66km/hr
I’m up early, determined to finish and start the long drive home as early in the day as possible. I’d forgotten to account for Christmas holiday traffic when I planned this hike.
The trail winds through sandy coastal scrub, gently rising and falling. For the first hour, it’s simply a matter of moving forward. I’m clearly the first one on trail today, unwittingly taking on the job of spiderweb-clearer.
Then the Apostles begin to appear, in small glimpses at first before they disappear again as the trail drops down. Gibson Steps are closed due to a rockfall, which removes the temptation to head down and get familiar with a couple of the stacks.
The final kilometres feel unnecessarily drawn out, wavering left and right as if designed to slow down day walkers rather than welcome tired thru-hikers to the end. All of a sudden, the visitor centre appears from behind a bend in the trail. The official end feels abrupt, anticlimactic. It would be unforgivable not to take the final walkway down to the Twelve Apostles lookout, so I do.
“Going, going, gone” remarks a sign on the track, pointing out those already falling victim to erosion. The remaining stacks stand defiant in the grey swell below, battered and beautiful; they’ll go in their own time, but for now they’re holding fast.
I linger briefly, then turn back toward the car, lured by the promise of coffee and a hot breakfast somewhere down the road.
Want More?
Curious about the practical side of the trail? Check out my Great Ocean Walk: How-To post for route info and planning tips.
Thru Horizons 
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